When Kendall Jenner stepped on to the Dior autumn/winter 2016 runway sporting a glossy, dark lip, I harboured some serious makeup envy. Like her, love her or loathe her, you can’t deny that the power of Kendall is unrivalled. When makeup artist Peter Philips was asked to describe the look in three words, he opted for ‘daring, dangerous and poison.’ Keeping the skin luminous and bare, Philips created a seriously streamlined look, with thick triangular lashes, flawless skin and lips that looked like pure poison. All the focus was drawn towards the lips for a dramatic effect that was anything but demure. With a new focus on strength in feminism, this bold look embraced the new meaning of femininity; a fierce, unafraid woman who is control of her choices. Eschewing the demure flutter of false-effect lashes we have from previous seasons become so accustomed to, Philips layered on Diorshow Maximiser 3D base primer and several successive layers of Diorshow iconic overcurl mascara for an intense, clumped effect that gave a wide berth to the softly, softly look of previous seasons.
There’s something undeniably alluring about a dark, gothic lip. Rodarte, Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Gareth Pugh and Marni all embraced the dark side for the upcoming fall/winter season, channeling sultry, seductress vibes from all corners. Taking this magnetic look from the Dior autumn/winter 2016 ready-to-wear show as the starting point, award-winning makeup artist Emma Farrell created my look, forgoing the lacquered, vinyl lips as seen on Jenner above and opting instead for my preferred choice – the matte look.
Emma used Tom Ford black orchid lipstick (available at Harvey Nichols. For a slightly less dramatic, more plum, you could use MAC Rebel with Vino lipliner, MAC Cyber with Nightmoth liner or Charlotte Tilbury Glastonberry) mixed with Charlotte Tilbury Bad Romance lip cheat. For the clumpy lash look, she welded together individual false lashes with moustache wax and coated them with Estee Lauder Sumptious Extreme Volume waterproof mascara, giving the eyes some warmth, using MAC Tete a Tint eyeshadow. Tom Ford lipstick is the absolute dream. As well as counting extreme longevity among its main benefits, the pigment is intense and it doesn’t need to be re-applied as often as one would think. MAC Rebel evokes a ‘vintage film noir’ vibe while Cyber engenders more than a whiff of Salem witch queen meets punk goddess.
The dark lip is undeniably the makeup trend of the upcoming season whether paired with minimal makeup, as seen at Marni or full-on avant-garde punk princess at Marc Jacobs a la Lady Gaga. For summer, think berry stain as your starting point; evoking the shades of blackberries and currants picked on summer days in the country side.
So, unless you’re planning a hot Tinder date, pucker up and layer some liquid darkness on those smackers. Whether you opt for the romantic look of Rodarte with minimal pared back makeup and ethereal hair or the 90s-inspired maximalism of Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma, the new noir is New York Fashion Week approved and supermodel-endorsed. Sold? You should be.
Photos by Malcolm McGettigan
FULL PRODUCT LIST:
Dior: Debenhams, Brown Thomas, Harvey Nichols, Boots.
MAC: Brown Thomas